The sport of rock climbing as we know it today has evolved from the centuries old practice of mountaineering. Through the years, the sport has illustrated its dangers through accidents and fatalities. Of course though, how could a sport where you’re dangling 50 feet above the ground not be inherently risky? Even the American Safe Climbing Association states “if you are seeking security, do not climb.” But the good news is that with all the innovations in rock climbing security and standards over the last 40 years, the most dangerous part of climbing now is the approach.
Since the 1970’s climbing has grown from a back roads activity to an international sport with specialized gear producers, organizations set on developing safe climbing techniques, and vies to be an Olympic sport. Alongside the growth in popularity arose a growth in safety standards. Reinforced belay loops replaced swiss-seats (harnesses made out of climbing rope), and belay devices replaced the age-old method of body belaying (using your hips as a stopping device).
With the sudden increase of interest, grass-root organizations that advocated across the board safety standards became more prevalent. These organization include the American Alpine Club and the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. They aim to “specify safety standards for mountaineering equipment and techniques.” Alongside these organizations, new specialized businesses emerged to fulfill the suddenly growing market. Climbing specific companies like Patagonia and Black Diamond have a high scrutiny for safety not only for the welfare of their customers, but also for the sake of return business.
Through sharp minds and past experiences, gear engineers have brought the percentage of climbing accidents attributable to gear malfunction nearly to zero. But then why, according to “Accidents in North American Mountaineering,” were their 28 climbing fatalities in 2011 compared to 15 in 1970?
The first explanation is simple. Statistically speaking, in comparison to the amount of people climbing, the 2012 ratio has gone down. The second explanation is that although gear malfunction has nearly dropped to zero, human error plays the largest, if not complete, role in climbing accidents. The responsibility still lies on the climber to know how and where to use what gear. So forty years ago or not, your mother may still not like you climbing, but at least you can tell her the gear you are using is safe.
*“The evolution of climbing equipment standards,” by Dave Custer. 2007. American Alpine Club.
* www.safeclimbing.org
* “Accidents in North American Mountaineering” 2012, published by the American Alpine Club.