Part of the beau­ty of surf­ing hap­pens while wait­ing beyond the break: The swell rolling beneath you, the wind blow­ing white cur­tains from the crests, and those adren­a­line charged moments of pad­dling into the wave. But when you’ve wait­ed for a while, you can’t help but start think­ing about the fish swim­ming beneath your feet. Con­tin­ue read­ing