The 2015 Everest climbing season is underway, and if previous years have been any indication, it should be another interesting year on the world’s highest peak. Over the past few seasons we’ve seen everything from awe inspiring personal accomplishments to unbelievable tragedy play out on the slopes of the “Big Hill,” making it a symbol for both incredible inspiration and extreme sorrow. Add in growing tensions between a variety of factions operating on the mountain, and we enter this season with a continued air of uncertainty surrounding the proceedings. It is difficult to say just how this season will unfold, but here are some things to keep an eye on in the weeks ahead.
Back to Business
Climbing Everest is big business, both for the commercial guide services that operate on the mountain, and for the governments of Nepal and China. The two countries issue permits for climbing on the South and North Sides respectively, and collect hefty fees in the process. Following last year’s unprecedented shutdown of the South Side after a tragic accident claimed the lives of 16 porters in an avalanche, there were some question as to whether or not that business would be impacted this year. While some of the commercial teams have shifted from the South Side to the North, there doesn’t appear to be any slowdown in the demand for Everest. Most companies report full rosters for 2015, which means the mountain is likely to be as crowded as ever. And with prices continuing to go up each year, there is clearly a lot of money to be made.
But Not Everyone is Back
While most of the commercial operators are returning to Everest this year with plenty of clients in tow, some have decided that the political climate, changing environment, and continued uncertainty on the mountain are ample reasons to stay away. The Peak Freaks, a company that has been leading mountaineers up Everest for nearly 25 years, has cancelled its 2015 and 2016 expeditions. Instead, they will focus on other—less crowded—mountains in the region. The Peak Freaks may not be alone in that decision either. If the Everest 2015 season doesn’t go smoothly, there could easily be other high profile companies jumping ship as well. No need to worry about finding a commercial guide service to lead future expeditions however, as more and more Sherpa-owned companies are popping up in Nepal, bringing new, less-costly options with them.
Increasing Danger
The avalanche that claimed the lives of the 16 Sherpas last year was the result of the collapse of a hanging serac—a giant piece of ice—over a crucial section of the climb on the South Side. That serac had been in place for years, but finally gave way due to the increased impact of climate change on the mountain. The Ice Fall Doctors, a group of Sherpa charged with maintaining the treacherous route through the Khumbu Ice Fall, feel that the danger still remains in 2015, and as a result they are shifting a section of the route in an attempt to avoid a repeat of last year’s disaster. But changing conditions on the Lhotse Face have brought increased danger to other parts of the mountain as well. As the glaciers on Everest retreat, all phases of the climb are starting to be impacted. That means that it could be even more difficult to safely climb and descend from the summit. Add in the growing crowds on the mountain, and Everest could be as dangerous now as it has ever been.
High Altitude Inspiration
As always, there will be a plethora of inspiring stories that make their way out of Everest Base Camp. For example, U.S. Marine Charlie Linville lost his leg to an IED in Afghanistan back in 2011, and he is now preparing to climb the mountain as part of the Heroes Project. Linville’s efforts will no doubt serve as inspiration to others who are facing adversity of their own. He’ll be joined on the expedition by other veterans with a similar story, as the team works together to overcome physical and mental challenges on their way to the top of the world. Each spring, a number of interesting personalities arise from the Everest scene, and I’m sure 2015 will be no different. As we get closer to the start of the season, which typically comes around the start of April, look for other inspiring stories to emerge.
Kilian Jornet Goes For Speed Record
Acclaimed mountain runner Kilian Jornet is hoping to set a speed record for the fastest climb on Everest this spring. He’ll be climbing on the North Side in Tibet and hopes to make a round-trip journey from Base Camp to the summit, and back, in roughly 35 hours. That would indeed be incredibly fast for any climber, but it pales in comparison to Pemba Dorje Sherpa’s mark of 8 hours and 10 minutes to the summit on the South Side. Previously, Jornet has set speed marks on Denali, Aconcagua, Mont Blanc, and other high peaks, but he has never faced a challenge like Everest. This will be the first 8000-meter mountain of his career, and it will certainly test his skills.
A New Route
Three elite climbers are foregoing the more traditional routes up the North Ridge and the South Col of Everest in favor of attempting a completely new path to the summit. The team includes Canadian climber Raphael Slawinski, and Germans David Goettler and Daniel Bartsch, each of whom has extensive experience on big mountains. The trio will attempt to summit without the use of bottled oxygen, fixed ropes, or Sherpa support along the difficult Northeast Face. If successful, it will be the first new route opened on the mountain since 2004.
Expect the Unexpected
There was once a time when an Everest season moved along like clockwork and you could accurately predict with some degree of certainty just how events would unfold. That certainly hasn’t been the case in recent years however when we’ve seen unprecedented shutdowns on both sides of the mountain (China closed the North Side in 2008 to take the Olympic torch to the summit), high profile brawls between western climbers and the Sherpas, and wealthy mountaineers going rogue to further their own ambitions. Watching some of these events unfold on the biggest stage in all of mountaineering has been both appalling and frustrating at the same time. But these events have also taught us one thing—when it comes to Everest—expect the unexpected.
